The clouds that had been looming on the horizon look as if they are blowing away - Yipee !
The union involved in the BA strikes have said that there will not be any more during the Summer and the vehicle hire money, that had been lost in the Kenyan banking system, has now turned up.
I think we have also sorted out how we are going to pay the fees to stay in the Mara. KAPS have recently been appointed to collect all fees on behalf of the Conservancy and it looks as if we can pay everything at their HQ in Nairobi. This will save us carrying around almost £2,000 cash for a week until we enter the National Reserve. However, we can't use a credit card and have to pay cash in Yanqui $ as we are foreigners.
It looks as if I can get all my stuff in one 23kg bag, so that I will have plenty of capacity to take stuff out to Sarah at the Mara Predator Project and Mark at Serian. Though both are running out of time to let me have their stuff.
.
Monday, 28 June 2010
Monday, 21 June 2010
1,000 Visitors
I've been surprised how many people have visited this site - it was originally only supposed to be a way to help us plan our trip to Kenya.
Now it's broken the 1,000 barrier and many people (>13%) are coming back for a second and third visit.
I'm glad it's been so popular but my only disappointment is that so few people have left a comment. I suppose I will just have to get used to 'talking' to myself.
Reports over the past few days indicate that the migration has already reached the Massai Mara and that today the first few Wildebeest have crossed the Mara River. We initially thought that we would be there too early in the year to see this spectacle but it seems as if we may be lucky !
The only cloud on the horizon is that the balance of the owed money I had transfered to Roving Rovers doesn't seem to have arrived in their bank account ! It's gone from mine and I have paid both my and RR's bank costs but the actual money is missing ! Patrick at RRs seems fairly laid back about this but the last thing I want is to arrive in Nairobi and there not to be a Landy to take us off on our travels.
.
Now it's broken the 1,000 barrier and many people (>13%) are coming back for a second and third visit.
I'm glad it's been so popular but my only disappointment is that so few people have left a comment. I suppose I will just have to get used to 'talking' to myself.
Reports over the past few days indicate that the migration has already reached the Massai Mara and that today the first few Wildebeest have crossed the Mara River. We initially thought that we would be there too early in the year to see this spectacle but it seems as if we may be lucky !
The only cloud on the horizon is that the balance of the owed money I had transfered to Roving Rovers doesn't seem to have arrived in their bank account ! It's gone from mine and I have paid both my and RR's bank costs but the actual money is missing ! Patrick at RRs seems fairly laid back about this but the last thing I want is to arrive in Nairobi and there not to be a Landy to take us off on our travels.
.
Thursday, 17 June 2010
Serengeti Super Highway
The Tanzania Government is considering a proposal to drive a major highway across the Serengeti Plains just South of the border with Kenya and straight across the path of the world famous migration.
There is wide spread concern across the world about this road and its impact on both the migration and the wider Serengeti / Massai Mara ecosystem.
You can see articles on this via the following links :
- Frankfurt Zoological Society
- African Wildlife Fund
- New York Times
- National Geographical
There are strong arguments for the benefits such a highway will bring to communities to the West of the Serengeti but these need to be balanced against wider impacts both in Tanzania and Kenya Massai Mara. Perhaps a different route might be more appropriate.
The Americans already have a petition against this but the UK Government has, unfortunately, withdrawn its on-line petition site. If you'd like to feed your thoughts into this debate, sign the American petition, email the Tanzania Association of Tour Operators or join the Facebook site.
"When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world" : John Muir
.
There is wide spread concern across the world about this road and its impact on both the migration and the wider Serengeti / Massai Mara ecosystem.
You can see articles on this via the following links :
- Frankfurt Zoological Society
- African Wildlife Fund
- New York Times
- National Geographical
There are strong arguments for the benefits such a highway will bring to communities to the West of the Serengeti but these need to be balanced against wider impacts both in Tanzania and Kenya Massai Mara. Perhaps a different route might be more appropriate.
The Americans already have a petition against this but the UK Government has, unfortunately, withdrawn its on-line petition site. If you'd like to feed your thoughts into this debate, sign the American petition, email the Tanzania Association of Tour Operators or join the Facebook site.
"When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world" : John Muir
.
Monday, 17 May 2010
Will we, won't we ?
The normal excitement of a rapidly approaching trip is being magnified by the uncertainties created by Iceland's Eyjafjallajökull volcano and British Airway's industrial relations.
The volcano may have an impact on us arriving on the planned day but only I will be affected by the latter as the others are either flying KLM from Newcastle or Virgin from Heathrow.
The others may also come under the influence of the volcano when they return at the end of their two week trip. Hopefully, by the end of September when I return, the eruptions will have subsided. Otherwise, an extension of my visa will be on the cards and I will be forced to spend some more time in Kenya - what a hardship !
On top of this Kenya seems to be benefiting from some good rains - hopefully things will have dried out somewhat by the time we arrive.
The volcano may have an impact on us arriving on the planned day but only I will be affected by the latter as the others are either flying KLM from Newcastle or Virgin from Heathrow.
The others may also come under the influence of the volcano when they return at the end of their two week trip. Hopefully, by the end of September when I return, the eruptions will have subsided. Otherwise, an extension of my visa will be on the cards and I will be forced to spend some more time in Kenya - what a hardship !
On top of this Kenya seems to be benefiting from some good rains - hopefully things will have dried out somewhat by the time we arrive.
Friday, 23 April 2010
Itinerary
We've spent a long time researching and talking about a possible itinerary that doesn't involve too much time driving around and also enables us to see more than just wildlife. The following itinerary seems to be our current plan but I'm sure it will be changed as we progress around the country. We'd welcome any feedback from experts etc.
Day 1 NAIROBI
Buy provisions & Safari Card / Pay Mara fees / See the sights (Methodist Guesthouse)
Day 2 To Abadare area (Trout Tree Resturant Cottage)
Day 3 : Abadare NP (KWS Fishing Lodge)
Day 4 To Nakuru (Kembu Camp)
Day 4 Nakuru NP (Kembu Camp)
Day 5 To Naivasha (Fisherman’s Camp or Camp Carnelleys)
Day 6 To Hells Gate NP (KWS Ol Dubai Campsite)
Day 7 To Massai Mara via Narok to buy provisions (Oloololo Gate or Serena campsite - or, if we are early, straight to Kiboko Special Campsite)
Days 8-12 Massai Mara Mara NR (Kiboko Special Campsite)
Day 13 Return to Nairobi
Monday, 12 April 2010
Chinese Take Away or Trading Elephants for Chopsticks
Channel 4 is one of the UK's principal TV stations and its "Unreported World" programme has gone undercover to investigate how the increased Chinese presence in East Africa has lead to a huge increase in elephant poaching, with potentially devastating effects on tourism and the local economy.
A summary of its findings can be seen at the station's webpage and the following is some of the more shocking findings :
The team are told that poaching is highly organised and fuelling other crimes. Poachers are armed by criminal gangs, and then use money from their proceeds to buy more weapons.
They saw the mountain of ivory in two strong rooms - 65 to 70 tonnes, worth millions of US dollars. The tusks were impounded to take them off the market in the hope of killing demand, but an illegal trade continues. Officials tell that the Chinese are behind the trade, in which ivory is smuggled to the Far East to be made into trinkets such as chopsticks. It's alleged that Chinese embassy officials smuggle ivory out of the country in diplomatic bags that don't get checked. Then, astonishingly, it is alledged that when President Hu Jintao came on a state visit to Tanzania in February 2009, his officials left with up to 200 kilos of illegal, smuggled ivory.
Tanzania has a well-managed elephant population but the programme investigates claims that the government has covered up the loss of 30,000 elephants in the Selous Game Reserve. They travel to the village of Mloka, which is at the centre of poaching in the reserve. Criminals in the capital Dar es Salaam organise expeditions of up to 30 armed poachers, who travel in military vehicles so that they are not stopped in roadblocks, and leave with up to 300 kilos at a time.
One safari operator claims that the Tanzanian wildlife department is aware of what's happening and may even be turning a blind eye to the illegal trade. He also confirms allegations that buyers from China and the Far East are fuelling the trade.
The Chinese Government said that they are against the illegal ivory trade and denied allegations that Chinese diplomats illegally purchased and exported ivory by misusing diplomatic immunity in 2009.
Tanzanian's Acting Director of Wildlife, Obedi Mbangw refused to comment but the government has subsequentlyindicated that it will investigate the evidence gathered in the film.
A summary of its findings can be seen at the station's webpage and the following is some of the more shocking findings :
The team are told that poaching is highly organised and fuelling other crimes. Poachers are armed by criminal gangs, and then use money from their proceeds to buy more weapons.
They saw the mountain of ivory in two strong rooms - 65 to 70 tonnes, worth millions of US dollars. The tusks were impounded to take them off the market in the hope of killing demand, but an illegal trade continues. Officials tell that the Chinese are behind the trade, in which ivory is smuggled to the Far East to be made into trinkets such as chopsticks. It's alleged that Chinese embassy officials smuggle ivory out of the country in diplomatic bags that don't get checked. Then, astonishingly, it is alledged that when President Hu Jintao came on a state visit to Tanzania in February 2009, his officials left with up to 200 kilos of illegal, smuggled ivory.
Tanzania has a well-managed elephant population but the programme investigates claims that the government has covered up the loss of 30,000 elephants in the Selous Game Reserve. They travel to the village of Mloka, which is at the centre of poaching in the reserve. Criminals in the capital Dar es Salaam organise expeditions of up to 30 armed poachers, who travel in military vehicles so that they are not stopped in roadblocks, and leave with up to 300 kilos at a time.
One safari operator claims that the Tanzanian wildlife department is aware of what's happening and may even be turning a blind eye to the illegal trade. He also confirms allegations that buyers from China and the Far East are fuelling the trade.
The Chinese Government said that they are against the illegal ivory trade and denied allegations that Chinese diplomats illegally purchased and exported ivory by misusing diplomatic immunity in 2009.
Tanzanian's Acting Director of Wildlife, Obedi Mbangw refused to comment but the government has subsequentlyindicated that it will investigate the evidence gathered in the film.
Tuesday, 30 March 2010
Malum Africanum / Mal d’Afrique / The Africa Bug
In an earlier posting I pondered on why I (and others) are repeatedly drawn back to Africa. The following is another perspective from a Dutch contributor to Trip Advisor’s Kenyan Forum :
A visit to Africa may result in your becoming afflicted with a malady for which there is no known cure . . .
.
The condition has afflicted many people over the centuries. Some of them were great explorers, others great physicians. Way back in ancient times it had already been identified and given a name, “malum africanum”, by the Latins, today known as “Mal d’Afrique” by the French.
.
There is no escape : no known remedy. They can now join those born with the condition in Africa and help fashion its image in a culture that aims at a fullness of human dimensions, good to serve as a global one.
The symptoms are extraordinary. The scope of our vision changes and you become preoccupied with distance, far horizons. At the same time you notice small things, subtleties that previously seemed irrelevant – shades of colours more noticeable than the colours themselves.
.
Your hearing intensifies; mechanical noises offend you as never before. You detect melodies in the trickle of a stream, hear voices in the rustling of leaves. The things you do in life become less important than the things you see, feel, and can touch.
And then the smell ! The smell of life in the first rain falling on and fertilising the arid soil and making it bloom with green grass and life-sustaining crops.
.
In the African bush, far away from surroundings you are accustomed to, you feel as though you have come home. Some say your spirit recognises the birthplace of its origin, others say you feel an overwhelming presence of the Creator in the scope of communal life.
.
In this country which abounds with nature, we have the most wonderful story to tell and yet we don’t tell it. God is exposed in this land. It is as though God mixed the ingredients of the earth here.
I wouldn't disagree with anything she says but still I remain uncertain of the true source of the continent's continuing attraction.
A visit to Africa may result in your becoming afflicted with a malady for which there is no known cure . . .
.
The condition has afflicted many people over the centuries. Some of them were great explorers, others great physicians. Way back in ancient times it had already been identified and given a name, “malum africanum”, by the Latins, today known as “Mal d’Afrique” by the French.
.
There is no escape : no known remedy. They can now join those born with the condition in Africa and help fashion its image in a culture that aims at a fullness of human dimensions, good to serve as a global one.
The symptoms are extraordinary. The scope of our vision changes and you become preoccupied with distance, far horizons. At the same time you notice small things, subtleties that previously seemed irrelevant – shades of colours more noticeable than the colours themselves.
.
Your hearing intensifies; mechanical noises offend you as never before. You detect melodies in the trickle of a stream, hear voices in the rustling of leaves. The things you do in life become less important than the things you see, feel, and can touch.
And then the smell ! The smell of life in the first rain falling on and fertilising the arid soil and making it bloom with green grass and life-sustaining crops.
.
In the African bush, far away from surroundings you are accustomed to, you feel as though you have come home. Some say your spirit recognises the birthplace of its origin, others say you feel an overwhelming presence of the Creator in the scope of communal life.
.
In this country which abounds with nature, we have the most wonderful story to tell and yet we don’t tell it. God is exposed in this land. It is as though God mixed the ingredients of the earth here.
I wouldn't disagree with anything she says but still I remain uncertain of the true source of the continent's continuing attraction.
Monday, 29 March 2010
Another Step at a Time
We had originally hoped that at the start and end of our trip that we would stay at the Wildebeest Campsite as it seemed to offer VFM accommodation, was in a good setting and received good reviews. However, it couldn't provide exactly what we needed and then didn't bother to respond to any further e'mail queries.
So before any more decent (and cheapish) accommodation disappears, we have booked into the Methodist Guest House. Not that we a particularly religious group of people but it seems to offer good accommodation (B&B) at reasonable rates (about £25 per person per night), transfers to and from the airport, secure parking, three restaurants + a snack bar and two pools. The only - slight - disadvantage is that being Methodist, it probably doesn't have a bar ! To add to its attractions, it also receives some good reviews on the Travel Advisor site.It is fairly conveniently located close to a couple of good supermarkets at which we can provision before leaving Nairobi and from which we can fairly easily reach Nairobi's attractions if we decide to spend some time in the City before heading out to the 'bush'.
It's now only a couple of weeks before the three of us get together for the first time to discuss our two week's exploration of part of Kenya. I've a good idea of where I'd like to go and what I'd like to see - but the others may have completely different ideas ! !
Friday, 12 March 2010
Our First Decision
We've taken our first decision - that is apart from deciding to go to Kenya and hiring a 4x4 - but the rest is still up in the air !
However, we are all sure we wish to visit the Massai Mara (to see where David Attenbourgh has spent much of his life) and, whilst we are there, that it would be good to have a real Africa experience.
So we are combining the two and have booked a few days at one of the Mara Triangle's Private Campsites. After a bit of research - on the interweb and exchanging e'mails with Alex at Serian - we've booked the Kiboko Campsite.
The camp is situated in the Southern portion of the Triange about 4.5 miles as the vulture flies North of the Tanzanian border. For those who want to look it up on Google Maps and see how remote it is, its co-ordinates = S1°29'29.88" E 35° 2'9.99".
Located on the West bank of the Mara River, I think we can guess who will be close neighbours as Kiboko is Swahili for Hippo ! However, as the camp is unfenced it is probable that other neighbours will also pay us a visit at some stage. Others, using similar sites, have had quite exciting visitors as they have recorded in their own blog.
It is a campsite in its strictest sense as there are no facilities - not even a long-drop toilet - and we will have to carry-in all our own food, drink and fuel. However, it is in the middle of the Mara and nature has provided lots of trees under which we can find shady pitches for our tents.
There are a few restrictions :
- no bathing in the river (Crocodiles !);
- no feeding the animals (they may take more than you are offering);
- don't stray more than 25 metres from the camp (no matter how fast you think you can run); and
- no loud music (the animals aren't into discos and complain).
However, we are all sure we wish to visit the Massai Mara (to see where David Attenbourgh has spent much of his life) and, whilst we are there, that it would be good to have a real Africa experience.
So we are combining the two and have booked a few days at one of the Mara Triangle's Private Campsites. After a bit of research - on the interweb and exchanging e'mails with Alex at Serian - we've booked the Kiboko Campsite.
The camp is situated in the Southern portion of the Triange about 4.5 miles as the vulture flies North of the Tanzanian border. For those who want to look it up on Google Maps and see how remote it is, its co-ordinates = S1°29'29.88" E 35° 2'9.99".
Located on the West bank of the Mara River, I think we can guess who will be close neighbours as Kiboko is Swahili for Hippo ! However, as the camp is unfenced it is probable that other neighbours will also pay us a visit at some stage. Others, using similar sites, have had quite exciting visitors as they have recorded in their own blog.
It is a campsite in its strictest sense as there are no facilities - not even a long-drop toilet - and we will have to carry-in all our own food, drink and fuel. However, it is in the middle of the Mara and nature has provided lots of trees under which we can find shady pitches for our tents.
There are a few restrictions :
- no bathing in the river (Crocodiles !);
- no feeding the animals (they may take more than you are offering);
- don't stray more than 25 metres from the camp (no matter how fast you think you can run); and
- no loud music (the animals aren't into discos and complain).
Wednesday, 10 March 2010
Getting there before it's too late !
Surfing the intergalatic interweb thingy finding out about things to do and places to go has highlighted a number of interesting facts etc.
However, one of the most worrying has been a number of references to the overdevelopment of the Massai Mara. A local newspaper reporter says "The allure of the Masai Mara is turning out to be its achilles heel, with the ecosystem facing an imminent collapse under the weight of heavy investments by hoteliers and camp operators".
He goes on to highlight that developers are disregarding the sensitive nature of the Mara's ecosystem and are now threatening not only that area but also the wider area that encompasses the Serengetti. Some camps were originally just 'temporary' to cater for the number of visitors during the high season - but they remain after its end. One five mile stretch of the Mara now accommodates five camps. A number of the Triangle's Private / Special Camps - renown for their peace and isolation - have been withdrawn following the development of lodges on the opposite bank of the River. In another area, there has been a big development within an area crucial to the local Black Rhino population.
It is reported that "To stem the human activity that now threatens the Masai Mara ecosystem, Tourism Minister, Najib Balala has launched a plan to shut down camps and lodges operating illegally starting next week. There are 108 camps and lodges in the Mara by the last count. Stakeholders are, however, calling for the gazettement and impementation of the Mara Management Plan that promises to offer a long-term solution."
It seems to be high time that the powers that be - both in the Mara area and in Nairobi - get together to agree a plan for the future of all parts of this sensitive area. It should cover the National Reserve areas on both side of the Mara River (currently administered by different local authorities) and also the surrounding conservancies. BUT the plan needs to be more than a piece of paper - it needs to be enforced.
Already the Mara has already lost 50% of its wildlife in the past 10 years. Also, since both County Councils agreed a moratorium on new lodges in 2005, another 50 have appeared in the Eastern / Narok part of the Mara - that's 10 every year !
If it is not enforced, there will be a lodge or camp under every Acacia tree and 20 combis around even the smallest animal. Once that happens, the Mara will lose its special place in people's hearts, they will stop coming and everybody will be a looser !
Following writing this post, this interesting article about lodge/camp developments in the Mara subsequently appeared in the Kenyan Star newspaper.
However, one of the most worrying has been a number of references to the overdevelopment of the Massai Mara. A local newspaper reporter says "The allure of the Masai Mara is turning out to be its achilles heel, with the ecosystem facing an imminent collapse under the weight of heavy investments by hoteliers and camp operators".
He goes on to highlight that developers are disregarding the sensitive nature of the Mara's ecosystem and are now threatening not only that area but also the wider area that encompasses the Serengetti. Some camps were originally just 'temporary' to cater for the number of visitors during the high season - but they remain after its end. One five mile stretch of the Mara now accommodates five camps. A number of the Triangle's Private / Special Camps - renown for their peace and isolation - have been withdrawn following the development of lodges on the opposite bank of the River. In another area, there has been a big development within an area crucial to the local Black Rhino population.
It is reported that "To stem the human activity that now threatens the Masai Mara ecosystem, Tourism Minister, Najib Balala has launched a plan to shut down camps and lodges operating illegally starting next week. There are 108 camps and lodges in the Mara by the last count. Stakeholders are, however, calling for the gazettement and impementation of the Mara Management Plan that promises to offer a long-term solution."
It seems to be high time that the powers that be - both in the Mara area and in Nairobi - get together to agree a plan for the future of all parts of this sensitive area. It should cover the National Reserve areas on both side of the Mara River (currently administered by different local authorities) and also the surrounding conservancies. BUT the plan needs to be more than a piece of paper - it needs to be enforced.
Already the Mara has already lost 50% of its wildlife in the past 10 years. Also, since both County Councils agreed a moratorium on new lodges in 2005, another 50 have appeared in the Eastern / Narok part of the Mara - that's 10 every year !
If it is not enforced, there will be a lodge or camp under every Acacia tree and 20 combis around even the smallest animal. Once that happens, the Mara will lose its special place in people's hearts, they will stop coming and everybody will be a looser !
Following writing this post, this interesting article about lodge/camp developments in the Mara subsequently appeared in the Kenyan Star newspaper.
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